Machines | Washer Heavy Duty Motor Coupling (part #285852A) - How To Replace
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Buy the new Washer Heavy Duty Motor Coupling 285852A http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-heavy-duty-motor-285852a-ap3961972.html Follow these simple step-by-step instructions to replace the Washer Heavy Duty Motor Coupling on top load direct drive Whirlpool, Kenmore, Sears, Roper, KitchenAid, Inglis, Estate, and Kirkland washing machines. Symptoms: Washer will fill and drain, but will not agitate or spin. Buy the new Washer Heavy Duty Motor Coupling 285852A http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-heavy-duty-motor-285852a-ap3961972.html Most orders delivered in 2 business days or less. Tools needed: Flat head screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver or socket, and a hammer. This Whirlpool made Washer Heavy Duty Motor Coupling replaces the following older part numbers: 3978849, 285852, 280153.
Comments
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Wow! This video was great. Step by step and easy to follow. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
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I have a Samsung washing machine and it's not determine if it's using those and is starting to wobble LeapPad from the top only vrt model no wa422prhdwr/aa01 asp thank you
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Thank you very much!!! 30 min and rock's
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this is by far one of the best how to, "tubee" to date. thank you
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Awesome Video - I almost did the repair by myself but the motor was too heavy to lift while trying to line up the pegs (needed to get my hubby to help) but we got the job done. Otherwise a fairly simple job. Thanks Again!
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Thanks a lot, Brilliant video worked a treat
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You may want to go to our forum and post this along with all the details. It will probably take more than I can type out here. Did you check to be sure there is not something caught between the tubs? Was there any oil on the clutch causing it to slip, could be from the transmission. If the agitator is trying to move in the spin cycle it could be a bad transmission. Could be the brakes are not releasing properly, could be a problem with them or the basket drive.
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I've replaced both the clutch and the drive block on a Kenmore 500. It ran fine for about 1/2 dozen loads then started to do what caused me to replace those two parts in the first place....refusing to spin. It agitates fine, drains fine etc. just won't spin. I bypassed the lid switch and I can get it to spin by manually turning the drum to get it going. Could this be a coupler issue? I need to pull it apart again but when I original looked at it ( in place ) it seemed solid. Thanks!
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Thank you so much it helped me so much! i didnt have money for new machine or repairs!! i did it with you video and now working
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Thank you for this video, it was a big help to guide me through replacing the motor coupler in my machine. The washer sounds great now, I think that before it stopped agitating and spinning last week it must have gotten down to only one leg on the inner plastic transfer piece. Then that final leg broke. But now if I ever have to do this job again, I'll know that if the machine starts sounding kind of noisy when agitating and spinning, it may well be a sign that the legs are breaking.
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Yes, a few guys I called around town thought it was probably the transmission or significant part so we got another machine. Great videos, though.
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In general it shouldn't buz, unless it has a end of cycle buzzer. If it is an electrical buzzing then you may have a bad part. You will have to open the machine up and try and find out what part is causing the noise.
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I have these symptoms along with a loud obnoxious buzz. Is a buzz normal or does that mean I have another problem?
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I followed your instructìon and I fixed my washer! Yeeeeaaaaah! Thank you. Tri Le
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this is the best use of YouTube ever. Thanks for the instructions guys.
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I guess I did actually have to remove it, from the way it looked. I took your advice frm the video. I had already started the job B4 I got your reply. It was a VERY quick response, though. Thanks! I really couldn't see any1 EVER being able to work on the Roper model I have, without doing like U said. The motor was facing/covered by the front piece of the cabinet.
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Taking the cabinet off is a simple and correct process. As some have stated, another way is to take a shortcut by tipping the washer on its back and gaining access to the coupling that way. However, in this case you run a risk of damaging the gearcase. As long as you're OK with taking that chance, you can save yourself 5 minutes by not removing the washer cabinet.
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I can NOT tell if U used both plastic parts or not.
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some1 else said that taking the body off was pointless. Is that honestly the, no BS, truth???
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I would start with checking the lid switch. If its bad the washer thinks the lid is up and wont do the rinse/spin cycle. If that checks out you may have to look at the timer. If you need help you can always register and ask techs questions on our forum.