Machines | My Car Died - Cranks But Won't Start
videos | at work | information | view | construction
My car cranks but won't start. Driving home in my 1999 Acura Integra the engine suddenly shut off. After pulling to the curb, the car would crank but it could not start. This video will go through the troubleshooting process of determining why the car wouldn't start. When there's no spark at the plugs, it's important to check the wires, ignition coil (ignitor), ignition control module, and the distributor for any issues. This will show how to change a distributor. See AutoZone Brand Pages Below: #HoodsUpAmerica https://www.facebook.com/autozone/?fr... https://www.instagram.com/autozone/ https://twitter.com/autozone https://www.youtube.com/user/AutoZone This post was sponsored by AutoZone, but the opinions and content are all my own. And don't forget to check out my other pages below! Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/engineeringex... Official Website: http://www.howdoesacarwork.com Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/jasonfenske13 Instagram: http://www.instagram.com/engineeringe... Car Throttle: https://www.carthrottle.com/user/engi... EE Extra: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsrY... NEW VIDEO EVERY WEDNESDAY!
Comments
-
Standard distributor on a 1999 car......?
-
hello my car did the Sam thing to me the other night. I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse.. I changed the master air flow sensor nothing. it cranks but won't start and I can smell gas any suggestions
-
Interesting and informative. Liked the speeded up , slowed down arrangement!
-
I have a honda crv 2000 model and i have that problem right now, i have a question the car died but starting repeatedly it start again, have this situation 3 times and im afraid to drive the vehicle because of this situation..
-
This indeed is a good video.
-
I have this same issue with my 2003 Mitsubishi Galant and I changed my starter, fuel pump and Camshaft Sensor.. but it still will not start so now someone's telling me it's my Timing Belt because the last time I drove it I heard a slapping sound over by the motor... someone plz help me figure out if it's my Timing Belt or a crankshaft sensor!! thanks
-
how do u see the spark from the distributor
-
I have change my distributor but still doing the same thing.
-
Just went through this on my 2000 Civic. Was going to just replace the burned out ICM and half-cooked coil but rounded out the Phillips screws for the ICM and the terminals on the coil....$160 I didn't want to spend at O'Reily's. But Lifetime warranty, and took 4 minutes to swap. Oh yeah and it snapped right to life.
-
I have a 93 miata and suddenly it stop running. One day i was cruisingg down a hill then it died like you said. Then i pulled over and it started right back up. I drove it for a day and everything was good then the day after it didnt start. I changed the fuel pump nothing happened. I found out theres no spark going to the 2nd and 3rd cylinder. What could be going wrong? Coil pack?
-
mine does exacly the dame thing
-
Hello I have 2005 nissan altima it crank but wont start.Change starter cam and crank sensors check alternator and its good and fuel pump also. And relays Last day i was using it i had the ac on and started shaking and just stop . Any suggestion
-
I had the same seized rotor issue on a 22 year old Civic; the corrosion over the years effectively welded it onto the distributor shaft, and all the usual efforts including a battery terminal puller (which was able to exert a great deal of force) proved fruitless.
I ended up damaging the TDC sensor when I unknowingly used it as a convenient prying point, which turned what should have been a 5 minute cap and rotor maintenance into a distributor replacement. With the gouges seen on the video, that's apparently the natural place to try prying, but beware....
Distributor has to be replaced when that goes because the sensor is not available as a replacement item, they made it captive with the harness, with Honda seeing fit to omit any connectors for the three position sensors in there. Because they never fail, they figure.
The correct way to remove that rotor insert from the distributor shaft is to use a dremel tool and slot through the insert at the screw hole area; then take a flat screwdriver and twist it open for clearance; turned out to be a fairly easy process that way. When you see the rust layer effectively acting as sandpaper grit on the surface, you'll know why there was no chance at all of sliding it off. If Honda made it out of nylon or some other material this wouldn't happen. Don't see any good reason why they had to make it with a encapsulated metal insert like that; it's hardly seeing any forces just sitting there like that. Either that or put some dielectric grease to forestall the corrosion, and it would withstand 22 years of Honda no-maintenance.
I was then able to install the replacement rotor but then found it started up but would only run a few minutes from cold. Turns out it was the cracked sensor; not simply the ICM or coil as I was hoping. So $85 for a new distributor assembly and it's been running ever since. -
Mikey C said, "That mechanical rotor system is certainly old school...the spinning-contact rotors went out years before that?" Honda's smart, they knew the mechanical rotor (and one coil and spark plug wires) works just fine, as long as it gets a tune-up periodically. Of course, who knows what a tune-up is anymore, given that most cars have multiple coils sans wires?
-
you should've made a video about how to time it from tdc
-
Can anything thing go wrong if I have the roster that plugs into the engine backwards?
-
I had a 4-cyl GSi Integra, one of the best cars I ever owned.
-
Please help car die won't start. I have fuel and sparks, can't figure what's wrong would appreciate the help and advice