Machines | Chevy 2500 Drive Shaft Center Support Bearing Change
videos | at work | information | view | construction
This is on a 2000 GMC. Changing a drive shaft center support bearing or carrier bearing. The truck had a vibration around 45mph that went away after this operation. The truck also had a clunking sound when going into gear. The rubber bearing bond was shot on the original support.
Comments
-
Did this today and now I have a bad clunking coming from the driveshaft. I wounder what went wrong.
-
Did this today and now I have a bad clunking coming from the driveshaft. I wounder what went wrong.
-
how hard should the lower shaft be to separate from the propeller shaft? Mine is stuck hard. The guys that replaced the bearing reassembled and I don't think they checked for spline alignment. Possible to bang it back on if the keyed grooves don't line up?
-
I have a shimmie/shudder at takeoff and bad vibration when towing up to about 50 mph on my 08' 3500 longbed, i went underneath and the whole driveline wobbles in the housing, looks I am doing this job myself.
-
my truck has a whinging sound at 90 km a hour,,would this be my problem as i thought it was the rear end but had the oil changed and that never fixed my trouble
-
can you just replace the rubber support?? I don't think my bearing is bad, just hear thumps when I hit bumps, because of the torn rubber support
-
THANKN YOU. GOT ONE COMING IN.
-
did it vibrate after that? was it in balance from when you put it back together.
-
Yeah...some of those are a P.I.T.A.! I do mechanical repairs at work..and did one of these today. Same set up with the press and seperator, and mine DID bend! That sucker came off though with thunderous bang! Everybody in the shop thought I broke something or hurt myself..lol
-
dude you got lucky mine almost exploded the whole damn press and bearing separator..... lmao........... i actually have the same press and separator you have................. good video to anyone watching because this is the only way you are going to take it off........... and by the way, buy the $80 bearing and not the cheap one. the $80 one is identical to the one that came off at oreilly
-
I love all the professional mechanics chiming in and talking shit. You guys do great work, their just ticked off your doing it on your own. Hind sight is 20/20 it's so easy to stand back and make comments about someone else when your hands ain't getting dirty the shits flying.
-
I just had this done about 30k miles ago and it has failed again. Any suggestions on what would cause a new one to fail in less than 2 years of freeway driving?
-
very informative
-
I love the way they skipped the hardest part! I saw them remove the clips off the yolk, then spray it, but what happened to pressing out the U-joint from the actual yolk?? That's is the most difficult part of it all, especially for the at home mechanic
-
I have essentially the same truck, what size is the inside diameter? I have no clue which one to order since there's 2 (1.37" aka 35mm or 1.57" aka 40mm). Thanks
-
Hello, thanks for the video! I have a question, I'm doing the same job but on a much larger truck. has a two piece drive shaft witch is about 15 feet long or close to it. The problem is where the two pieces of the shaft should come apart, where you then see the blue grease. It is seized solid, I already tried heating it red hot on the end and tried prying it apart while hammering on it with an air chisel. I could try a jackhammer??!!
-
you know the make tools to take those clips off? you look like a back yard mechanic prying off those clips and letting them just fly away like that.
-
so my truck is just about as rusty as this one. wondering the risk of putting a lift kit on it... Any advice?
-
Did you have too balance the drive shaft at all that's my only concern but great detail in the video
-
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO we replaced our center bearing and it failed 2 days later didn't know about the double spline this video helped a lot thanks again