Machines | 5 Things You Should Never Do In A Turbocharged Vehicle
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5 Things You Should Never Do In A Turbocharged Car 5 Things You Should Never Do Playlist - https://goo.gl/SxoUi7 Subscribe for new videos every Wednesday! - https://goo.gl/VZstk7 1. Do not run the engine hard after start-up. Most people know you should let your engine warm up before running it hard, but many cars only have coolant gauges. Engine oil tends to take longer to heat up, because you don’t have a thermostat like the coolant does, which isolates the coolant in the engine block and regulates its temperature. Oil that isn’t heated up won’t flow as fast as oil at operating condition, which means you’ll have less protection at engine start up. This is especially true for turbocharged vehicles, because you also have oil feeding the bearings of the turbocharger, which spins at insanely high RPM and produces significant heat, so you want to make sure you have proper oil flow through the turbo. It will be different for every car, but it could be an additional several minutes before your oil temperature is near your engine coolant temperature. 2. Don't shut the car off immediately after running it hard. You’re going to have hot spots where the engine components, and especially the turbocharger, are still significantly hotter than your engine oil temperature. If you shut off the engine, the oil no longer flows, and thus pockets of the oil are going to be heated up to very high temperatures. These high temperatures break down the oil, and also burn up and evaporate the light end of the oil, leaving behind a heavier oil that won’t have ideal flow characteristics. This reduces your engine oil life, and also means you might have less protection at start-up. 3. Don’t lug the engine. Low Engine Speed, High Load Operations. First, this isn’t ideal because you’re telling your engine to move your vehicle quickly when it’s at a huge gearing disadvantage. Second, when your engine tries to produce more power at low engine speeds, it may be able to inject more fuel, but not ingest enough air. As a result, you’ll have a highly rich mixture and this can lead to poor emissions, damaging your catalytic converter, and seeing black smoke come out your exhaust. Third, regarding damaging your engine, this can cause low speed pre-ignition. LSPI is a when you have pre-ignition of your air fuel mixture (before your spark ignites it) and is becoming a more common phenomenon with small turbocharged engines running at low engine speeds with high load. It’s a dangerous condition that can cause engine damage, such as broken spark plugs or cracked pistons, as a result of extremely high pressures which occur due to significantly advanced ignition timing. It’s also very challenging to detect, and can’t be avoided through ignition timing or changing the spark plug’s heat range. 4. Don't use low octane rating fuel, especially if the car has been modified. Turbocharged cars tend to have higher pressures and temperatures within the combustion chamber, which is why they have reduced compression ratios to compensate. If your car is modified, you can keep it reliable by running a rich mixture and using high quality, high octane fuels. Obviously reducing boost and retarding the engine timing will do this as well, but of course you’ll be reducing performance. There are knock sensors to help minimize any engine problems, and so they’ll retard timing if it senses knock will occur. 5. Don’t floor it coming out of a corner. In this one I just wanted an excuse to talk about slip angles. Turbocharged cars have some varying amount of turbo lag, new ones are much better. My point is this, as you’re coming out of a corner, your tires have some loading on them, whether your car is FWD, RWD, whatever. Now this doesn’t apply to AWD quite as much, but it’s still an issue. Your car’s stability is a result of your front tire slip angles being nearly identical to your rear tires slip angles. So long as this is true, your car moves on its targeted path. If you floor a turbocharged car, especially cars with high amounts of turbo lag, you get slammed with torque fairly surprisingly. This shock of torque increases the demand of the driven tires, increasing their slip angle. If you have a significant increase of slip angle of just one set of tires, front or rear, you end up with understeer for FWD, or oversteer for RWD. All of this is to say that your throttle application exiting the corner is very important, especially in 2WD turbo vehicles, where turbo lag can easily cause an understeer or oversteer situation. And don't forget to check out my other pages below! Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/engineeringexplained Official Website: http://www.howdoesacarwork.com Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/jasonfenske13 Instagram: http://www.instagram.com/engineeringexplained Car Throttle: https://www.carthrottle.com/user/engineeringexplained EE Extra: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsrY4q8xGPJQbQ8HPQZn6iA NEW VIDEO EVERY WEDNESDAY!
Comments
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Does number 2 apply to N/A engines as well
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rear that research split illustrate cap might
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woah audio warning
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i learned the first part the hard way.
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Dude, your car makes no boost down low, lugging it is useless. Are you really an engineer?
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common sense but sharing a car with the other half and convincing her to let it idle after a run is not so easy,grrr
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You're so eloquent, nice video
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explain "high boost" at low rpm. isn't boost produced by exhaust rpm?
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LSPI is a problem indeed, especially if your oil has additives that are based on calcium (mostly detergents). But it is more of an issue with gasoline direct injectors like the Volkswagen TSI engines. But there is another problem as well with high load at low revs. The oil film in the crankshaft bearings builds up its oil pressure through the speed differential between bearing and shaft. It's mostly a hydrodynamic lubrication. High oil pressure means that the oil film itself can take more load, especially the ignition chamber pressure that gets translated into piston rod force. Now at low revs, a high force might lead to the shaft being pushed into the underside of the bearing with no oil pressure there to keep shaft and bearing separated. Not good. Naturally aspirated cars don't have these problems because they usually have low torque at low rpms so there won't be as much piston rod force to begin with.
As a rule of thumb, I never floor my twin-charged car in high gears below 2500 RPM. -
Excellent video and helpful infromation.
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i have a question im still new to workign on cars most advanced thing ive done would be between altenator and serpintine belt change and replacing brake lines on my 92 ford explorer 4 door eddie bauer edition awd im thinking of installing a turbo in it eventually because i heard it is more effecient for the engine when at say highway speeds is that true or is it completley pointless for me to do so on my car. thanks in advance on the info
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uncomfortable i please this one hfavily her !
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what do you mean by driving hard? is it about how much you push the fuel pedal or how high the RPMs are ?
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5:54 Yep, tried to save money by putting 91 on a 95/98 car, absolutely mucked it up because our neighbourhood is really hilly..
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Do you have a video explaining the difference in turbocharged and supercharged? Guess I could look it up and it's 1 in the morning so I'm not going to get sucked into watching another video.
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aren't 1 and 2 something that is not necessary for modern engine oil(synthetic oils)
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Always idle a turbo charged engine at 5-15 minutes to cool the turbo. If you been dogging iit 15-20.
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you do know that oil is thicker at higher temps and lighter at colder temperatures ex. 5w 30 Ive always respected your advice but this one kinda bugged me.
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So I have a Cruze that has a TINY turbo in it. It isn't really meant for power anyway. Should I be buying 89 or 91 octane in my car?
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Modern diesels tend to have Dual Mass Flywheels, probably the only reason not to let them pull hard from low rpm. I have had a number of turbocharged cars and do a high mileage, the whole turbo cool down process seems to be exaggerated, if the car has not been thrashed I really don't believe the turbo needs an extended cool down period. I am sure it varies from car to car and possibly the turbo bearings vary. Cars don't need to be babied, that doesn't mean screaming the engine as soon as it starts but you are fine to drive straightaway.. ultimately the car is a tool to serve you and not the other way round.